One of the newest vogue ingredients around town is black walnut, often used to bring a nuttiness to traditional drinks such as the Manhattan. Black walnut generally takes the form of bitters from the expansive Fee Brothers library though a new liqueur has recently debuted - Kuchan Juglans Nigra Black Walnut Liqueur from a Croatian-born distiller working in California.
Empellon Cocina (105 First Avenue) is using the black walnut bitters in an excellent drink called Hecho en Humo, made with El Mayor Blanco tequila, Mexican Coca Cola reduction, Regan's orange bitters, black walnut bitters and "smoke". The reduction gives it a sweet, almost burnt caramel-like flavor that mellows nicely with ice melt. The smoke element, however, was very faint, if not completely missing.
At Hospoda (321 E. 73rd Street), a great spot for beer and modern Czech food, they make a Manhattan with black walnut liqueur. The result is a dark, rich drink with lots of body - almost like a dark beer minus the hops. Perfect for the richer dishes on their menu.
We weren't fans of the drinks at the predecessor to Inoteca Liquori (323 Third Avenue), Bar Milano, but the cocktail program under Chaim Dauermann has become the best in the area. Ask for the off-menu Black Manhattan made with Rittenhouse Rye, Averna, Cocchi Vermouth and black walnut bitters - it's a bit sweet but delicious.
Have you come across black walnut in a cocktail around town? Drop us an email or comment below.
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