March 2010 Archives

Char No. 4

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There is something about cold weather that makes us think about brown spirits and a recent trip to Brooklyn gave us the opportunity to check out a place that is a must destination for brownies like us - Char No. 4 (196 Smith Street).

Char No 4.jpgChar No. 4 tags itself a whiskey bar and restaurant, and it certainly delivers on the brown liquor front. The list has 150+ American whiskeys as well as whiskeys from around the world, so we were excited to peruse the list and take advantage of the 1 oz pour options to taste some obscure stuff.

The long bar was inviting as we slipped in early one night. We started with a couple of cocktails, hoping to ease our way into the bourbons and single malts. Unfortunately, this proved a mistake - the Hound Dog, Ancient Age bourbon, fresh grapefruit juice, honey, mint and lime was initially refreshing but quickly became boring. Even worse was the pointless Kir Royale-esque Kentucky Royale, Henry McKenna bourbon, sparkling wine, cassis and orange zest. The heavy bourbon basically killed any effervescence in the sparkling wine and the drink was a complete failure.

Meanwhile, the bar got busy with people ordering, of all things, wine and beer. In a whiskey bar! Still we were determined to get into the ounce tastings, Bud-swigging neighbors be damned. We started with one of three tastings Char has created - the Belmont Park, which consisted of Four Roses single barrel bourbon, Jameson Irish Whiskey 18 year and a Laphroaig 7 year Signatory Single Malt scotch. At $25 for three one ounce pours, the tasting was a bit steep but nevertheless rewarding. The highlight was the delicious Jameson 18, surprising since Irish whiskey is not our thing. We then jumped to some 1 ounce tastes - the 1990 Lochnagar old malt cask 15 year old ($14, 1 ounce) was quite good as was the Blanton's silver, a rare find ($20, 1 ounce).

And the food? Decidedly meaty, with a Southern flare and actually pretty good. We enjoyed the house cut smoked bacon, the pork sausage with lentils and the lamb pastrami.

This being Brooklyn, the service was friendly at points, unprofessional at others and not enough staff was totally knowledgeable about the booze list. That's unfortunate in a place with this depth of great liquor but perhaps not so surprising when considering that many people just prefer beer to delving into the vagaries of 12 vs 15 year old single malts.


Chambers Street Wines and Louis/Dressner Selections are holding another free mega tasting - this one on Saturday April 24 from 2pm to 5pm at City Hall Restaurant (131 Duane Street, Tribeca). 26 winemakers will be pouring an amazing array of wines - the full list is available on Chambers Street's website.

The store is taking reservations for the tasting - admission is on the half hour. Call 212-227-1434 or email with your preferred time.
The space below Corner Shop Cafe at 643 Broadway has long been a part of NYC's nightlife, in spite of the innocent looking street level cafe. It's always been about the subterranean level even back in the day when both Walt Whitman and Mark Twain supposedly drank there. Years later the space was home to the notorious gay club Mr. Black. Most recently, it was never-quite-open speakeasy Woodson and Ford. We wrote about Woodson and Ford many moons ago but it never technically opened and the principals dispersed to other ventures including Rye House.

Yesterday, courtesy of a horrendously long and stuffy Community Board 2 meeting, we learned the fate of the space. A very earnest former dancer named Leslie has taken over both the cafe and basement space. The basement is slated to be a lounge, but a place that attracts artists, dancers and "freethinkers" rather than rowdy crowds. Leslie and her associate, who says he has worked at places like the Waldorf and the Plaza, pledge no promoters, loud music, velvet rope or bouncers. The neighbors weren't quite buying it - typically new owners get blamed for previous bad ones at these meetings - but we think the new owner will win them over. As long as she has a good bartender and eschews the bouncer, she should be in good shape.

In other CB 2 news, good luck to the guys who want to take over the Lola space - they plan a pizzeria/upscale Patsies type joint. Not exactly a Soho special. The Snack Taverna guys want to open a place called Barcar, which will have 12 seats plus 6 at the bar. The CB folks were very curious how they were gonna make money. And Charles owner Cobi Levy took the heat for the failures of Beatrice Inn. Hey CB 2, it's not his fault you approved a license in the space to a fake restaurant cum club - Levy insisted they didn't use the kitchen ever, except perhaps as a drug den. He pledged to work with the community, open a Spanish resto with a real chef that he won't name because the bloggers would ruin it (lol) and fix the various building issues.

After one of these mind numbing CB meetings, you really wonder why anyone would open a restaurant or bar in NYC.
With Natural Winemakers Week upon us, there will be tastings, events and more around town from March 6 - 11. One event will be at Astor Center - taste more than 20 natural wines for $15. The event takes place Saturday from 3pm - 6pm. Tickets available here.

TheTangledVine140.jpgMeanwhile, the Upper West Side gets its first wine bar devoted to organic, biodynamic and sustainable wines, The Tangled Vine Wine Bar & Kitchen (434 Amsterdam Ave at W. 81st, website). With over 160 selections by the bottle and some killer by the glass options like the 1999 Gravonia from Lopez de Heredia and a 2000 Rioja Reserva, both preserved by a Napa Techonolgy Wine Station, this is now the go-to grown up drinking spot on the UWS. The food shows good variety, with everything from wine-friendly charcuterie and cheese to poussin and hanger steak. With a seasonal Mediterranean-inspired menu from Chef David Seigal (Mercat, Bouley), you're in good hands.

Sweet Potato Beer

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coedo_beniaka.jpgBeer may come in many, many forms and styles but we've never seen sweet potato beer, at least not 'til now. At this year's International Restaurant & Foodservice show (running through tomorrow at Javits), the Japanese have a huge presence with booth upon booth devoted to ramen, miso, shochu, sake and, yes, beer! We stopped by Coedo's booth and tried all five beers. They were well made but the Beniaka particularly struck our fancy. Whenasked what it was made from - there was a nicely balanced sweetness - we were told "sweet potato" made from Kintoki sweet potatoes from Kawagoe in Central Japan. They say it's the only sweet potato beer in the world, which while not technically true, is besides the point. It was damn fine beer and you can't go wrong with any Coedo beers, assuming you can find them.
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This page is an archive of entries from March 2010 listed from newest to oldest.

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